Magical. That is the word that comes to mind when I think of Zanzibar. The island is a two hour ferry ride from Dar es Salaam and a world away. Zanzibar is different. It has its own government as a semi-autonomous region, the "zan" part of Tanzania (the other part being the mainland, Tanganyika). I now have a Zanzibar stamp in my passport. Zanzibar strongly reflects its Arab heritage. In 1698, it came under the rule of the Sultan of Oman, after 200 years as part of the Portuguese Empire. During this time, Zanzibar became the center of the Arab slave and ivory trade, and spice plantations were developed. The spice plantations are still there, producing cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla, black/white/green/red pepper, turmeric, and cardamom among them. It was fascinating to walk around a spice plantation from tree to tree, plant to plant, smelling, tasting, and guessing what they were.
I stayed in Stone Town, with it's narrow winding alleys, beautiful old buildings with incredible ornate carved front doors, and distinct Muslim influence, with men in their long white, shirt-like Thobes, women in hijab. This is contrasted with Stone Town as a very modern art center. Stone Town reminded me of the Arabic version of Venice, and my first evening I walked around, getting completely lost and enjoying every moment of the surprises that unfolded. Small squares with children playing, busy markets, people out walking and shopping in the cooler evening air, the sound of the call to prayer, passing many small mosques that opened up to the alleys, giving a clear view of men ritually washing before prayer, and men praying in the next room. I love the rhythm of Stone Town and the sense of peacefulness in the midst of a lot of activity. The smells in the air, from the salty ocean breeze, to the smells of curries, roasting meat and the delightful surprise of rosewater and cardamom in the air that greeted me when I entered my room.
My colleagues from UCSF and I headed up to the northern tip of the island for a day at Kendwa Beach, which I soon described as the perfect day. Pure white sand contrasted with the crystal clear turquoise water. I was in the water, reveling in the warm Indian Ocean, the chance to swim, a place to share with friends. I spent much of the day with my goggles on swimming and diving into the water enjoying the sea life. In the water, I am in my element, and this place was perfection. There is something about swimming in the warm salty ocean that is an entirely different sensual experience.
The mid-day monsoon rain signaled time to get out of the water and have lunch in an open thatch-roofed restaurant while the rain poured. On cue, the sun came out again after lunch, offering more opportunity to be in the water. At the end of the day, there was a beautiful, long sunset walk on the beach. I didn't want the day to end. The day at the beach added to the magic of Zanzibar, a place that truly is a feast for all the senses.
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